Dolphin-filled bays, secret beaches, colourful harbour towns and a slower way of life. Here’s why west Wales gets under our skin.
Perhaps it’s the way the coastline twists into hidden coves and great sweeps of golden sand, that are so empty compared to their counterparts in Cornwall. Maybe it’s the wild dolphins that patrol the harbours; the lovely foodie independents and the relaxed pace of life. Or maybe it’s just because it’s such great value! Either way, West Wales is one of our favourite places for sea swims, long lunches, windswept walks and easy family holidays.
Here are a few of our favourite reasons to head west…
A stunning restoration on the Ceredigion coast.
For years, Iestyn and Anna walked past a crumbling cottage in their village of Llanrhystud, imagining what it might become. When it finally came up for sale, they seized their chance, transforming the neglected building into Y Nyth – Welsh for The Nest – a gorgeous meeting of old and new.
Traditional Welsh character sits happily alongside striking contemporary design: limewashed walls, rich, earthy colours, beautifully considered interiors and a modern black extension. And with the beach just 10 minutes away on foot, and the Wales Coast Path running alongside, there’s everything you need for a family or walking holiday.
Head south to Aberaeron, with its cheerful rows of pastel-painted Georgian houses and pretty harbour. Stop for honey ice cream at The Hive, browse the independent shops and watch the fishing boats bobbing in the water. Further along the coast, New Quay is all winding streets, boats and dolphin-spotting trips. Cardigan Bay is home to a resident population of bottlenose dolphins, and seeing one leap from the water is a thrill you’ll always remember.
Beaches worth keeping secret.
West Wales does beaches exceptionally well, from great sandy expanses to tiny coves tucked beneath towering cliffs. Around Ceredigion, Llangrannog is a favourite for dog walks while nearby Penbryn is a glorious sweep of golden sand backed by woodland. At Mwnt, a little whitewashed chapel watches over a perfect crescent of beach
For a particularly lovely coastal walk, follow the path between Cwmtydu and Llangrannog, passing the dramatic headland of Ynys Lochtyn. Keep your eyes peeled for seals along the way, particularly in autumn.
And if you’re looking for somewhere to retreat after a day of sea air, Thatched in Wales is pure storybook magic. An 18thC cottage with bumpy stone walls, ancient beams and a beautiful garden where a little river runs beneath a medieval bridge. Owners Gemma and James fell for it while walking in the area, and have restored it with extraordinary care. Bring books, walking boots and… no plans.
Poster-child Pembrokeshire.
Talking of beaches… expect towering cliffs, turquoise coves, islands alive with seabirds and some of the finest coastal walking in Britain. The stretch between St Davids and Solva is particularly glorious, especially in spring when the headlands are scattered with wildflowers.
For something a little different, take to the water on a kayaking trip, explore the coast’s hidden caves or hop aboard a boat to Ramsey Island to spot seals and seabirds. Prefer your adventures on dry land? Wander the tiny streets of St Davids, visit its magnificent cathedral, then settle in for a long lunch.
And for a stay that brings you wonderfully close to nature, look no further than Wilder Retreats. Set within 24 acres overlooking St Brides Bay, these striking glass-fronted A-frame cabins make the most of their extraordinary setting. The Cleaver family have planted almost 3,000 trees here, helping create a thriving haven for wildlife. Spend your days exploring the coast, then return to watch the changing light over the bay. Utterly inspiring and great with a group of friends.
Small towns, big appetites.
There’s more to West Wales than its coastline though. Its little towns are full of independent spirit, with artists, makers, brilliant food producers and a refreshing absence of big-city bustle.
Cardigan is a lovely place to spend a slow afternoon, browsing independent shops and galleries before heading down to the river. Aberaeron is equally charming, particularly on a sunny day when its colourful terraces are at their brightest. And further south, Narberth punches well above its weight for independent shops, antiques, cafés and good food.
